The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance

"The Self-Coached Climber" is an excellent training resource for climbers at just about any level. I bought the book recently and before even finishing reading it, I started seeing improvements in my technique from working on the exercises.

In contrast to other books like "How to Climb 5.12," SCC is highly detailed and specific in its approach to improving fundamentals like balance, center of gravity and movement skills. The book provides excellent exercises for particular skills, and these are illustrated with abundant photos and/or drawings that show how the exercise should be done. Additionally, videos on the accompanying DVD can clarify any confusion with the exercises. Finally, a detailed training plan is presented for developing the stamina, strength and technique needed to move up in the climbing grades.

I think it's worth noting that while this is billed as a "self-coached" training book, some of the exercises can't be done without a partner. In fact, working with an equally-motivated partner through the course of the book would probably be the ideal approach.

I believe "The Self-Coached Climber" is a perfect companion piece to Arno Ilgner's mental training book "The Rock Warrior's Way" for anyone wanting to become a better and more confident climber.

I bought this for my husband who just started climbing this past year. He has done extensive research at local rock gyms, hiking stores, online, and at the library and said this was one of the best resources out there. He really enjoyed the enclosed DVD, as well.

As its title states, it is THE "Guide to Movement performance". Although it is a comprehensive guide on climbing training, its worth is found on the foundations of climbing technique (movement, positioning, etc ...). The authors formulate the very (few) principles of technique and their training through beautiful and comprehensive images and movies. This systematic approach enables the understanding of any move by reducing them to a combination of the basic principles.
The other parts of the book concentrate on the physical and psychological aspects of climbing. Although its principles are also shown, the practical application of these principles were, in my opinion, vague in comparison to the technique part. These sections are still worth reading, but I think "Training for Climbing" contains a richer and more practical approach to physical and psychological training.

The exercises recommended in the first few chapters were generally for more novice climbers but still, the information provided was useful and provided me with lots of insight into what i've already been doing.

btw, the book is focused more at your sport climbing performance rather than bouldering.

The book arrived moments before I left the house for a day of climbing. I skimmed through the book, taking note of some new moves to try. I went on to reach personal bests that day.

Now that I've had a chance to read more, the book is still my favorite book on climbing. Full of thought provoking images and ideas, the "Self Coached Climber" is clearly written and fun to read. The book is so full of terrific info and images, I haven't even looked at the enclosed DVD yet.

One of the nicest features about the images is that they show the climbing moves from several angles rather than just one so there is no need to guess at what you can't see (a problem with many climbing books).